It will not center properly otherwise and the engine will vibrate severely. Make sure you use the bushing in the fan clutch if needed. You would be amazed at how fast the engine pumps dry if it happens too. That pops once in a while and you can't get that gasket without a whole pump. Pull the backing plate off the new pump and apply a light wipe of sealer to both sides of the gasket in there before re-assembly. Access is stellar with the timing cover off. Would also be a good time to do the thermostat if its been a while. That will be the lower hose, the bypass hose, and the pump to pipe hose. If not, you'll want one.Ĭhange all of the hoses that connect to the water pump. Timing gasket set usually comes with a front seal. It has to come off and often the rubber is questionable by now. Not entirely sure when that came about but the factory gasket on my 91 Mark VII is rubber.Ĭonsider replacing the balancer while you're in there. Some of them are also rubber, and those basically never go bad. Its mostly out of the valve covers and the lower intake, so be sure you're not chasing the wrong problem before you get into a cussing match with it. Far less horrible than trying to glue 4 parts in place where you can't reach things and hope it doesn't all move.Īlso, just a mention, the pan gasket usually is not where they leak. Push the pan up into position and bolt it in, then swap the plastic pins for the remaining bolts. They screw into the block and the gasket sort of snaps over them. The FelPro ones usually come with the plastic gasket holder things that make life a lot less hateful. You want the 1 piece gasket if you're going to do it though, trying that 4 piece mess is just a horrible idea from underneath. Honestly getting the oil pan gasket changed without removing the engine is a bastard.
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